RETURN TO OLD MONDORO

Of all the camps in Zambia, one of our favourites is Old Mondoro. Owned by Grant Cumings, and run by our chums Etienne and Leana (pictured below) it's the sister camp to the the rather more luxurious Chiawa camp just upriver.

Which is certainly not to say that Old Mondoro is in any way less comfortable - it's just about perfect in my opinion. It's better appointed than a bush camp and less chichi than a lodge. So you feel adventurous being there, but you can still charge your camera batteries in your room. Which, incidentally, is nicely open to the elements along one wall during the heat of the day.

This open side to the room gives close up views of passing wildlife, as the long- suffering-Dilly discovered when putting her face on one morning (below). After a moment of shock when she thought she was looking in the mirror and had grown a trunk overnight, she realised her hilarious mistake, and settled down to chat with her new friend. By the end of our stay, the big tusker had her wrapped round the elephant equivalent of a little finger, even prompting her to gather various tasty treats to pile on the cabin steps for his delectation.

In the dry season, Old Mondoro has elephants in camp most days, and Etienne and Leana run the 'elephant shuttle', ferrying guests back and forth to their rooms in land cruisers, thus ensuring their safety, and avoiding any startling of itinerant pachyderms. They gather in camp prior to crossing the river to feed (see post below), and are wonderful animals to have around.

Old Mondoro is a camp like few others- classic, relaxed and with some of the most photogenic landscapes I've seen in Africa. Expect to see elephant (obviously) and lots of hippo and big nile crocodile. Excellent chances also of leopard, lion, kudu, honey badger and all the usual suspects, along with fantastic birds including white fronted, little and southern carmine bee eater. (Of which more will be written later).